Expert Tips for Incorporating Mandelic Acid Into Your Skincare Routine

What is mandelic acid?

Mandelic acid is a more recently adopted Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA). It is not one of the most popular AHAs, largely because it arrived on the market later than the others. Derived from the hydrolysis of an extract of bitter almonds, it is used on photo-ageing, irregular pigmentation and acneic skin.

What does mandelic acid do for the skin?

Mandelic acid is a good go-to anti-aging ingredient. It works to accelerate cell turnover by dissolving the bonds that hold dead skin cells together, helping to clear the surface buildup that leaves skin looking dull and makes fine lines more obvious. It also supports collagen, one of the building blocks that gives skin its firmness.

What type of skin will benefit from mandelic acid?

Mandelic acid suits sensitive skin and deeper skin tones particularly well. Its molecules penetrate more slowly than glycolic acid, which is exactly why it tends to be better tolerated. If you have sensitive skin, or a deeper skin tone of Middle Eastern or African descent, mandelic acid is worth asking me about.

Research has looked at mandelic acid combined with salicylic acid in higher-strength peels for deeper skin tones dealing with discoloration and post-acne marks, and at its use on melasma, a condition where light to dark brown or greyish pigmentation develops on the face. Melasma is stubborn and often hormonal, so it is worth seeing a dermatologist alongside anything we do in the treatment room.

For deeper skin tones, mandelic acid is one of the gentler routes to a more even complexion, and it avoids the bleaching agents I would never reach for.

What are the side effects of mandelic acid?

Immediately after applying, skin will feel sensitive. It may become dry, flaky, and turn a pinkish color. It can take two to three days for the skin to settle. Stay out of the sun, avoid strong chemicals, exfoliation, and any active serums you would normally use. Use a sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher, and wear a hat for extra protection.

Don’t forget your hat and sunscreen. You don’t want to undo the work.

What is mandelic acid used for?

• Softening the look of dark spots
• Improving skin texture
• Refining skin tone
• Unclogging pores
• Helping with breakouts
• Reducing the appearance of fine lines
• Evening out the complexion
• Antibacterial properties, which help with blackheads and pimples

Gently exfoliate your skin with mandelic acid to reveal a brighter complexion.

If you want to try an acid without guessing at strength, this is what the treatment room is for. Have a look at my chemical peels, or book a skin care consultation and we will pick the right acid for your skin together.