The Ultimate Guide to Chemical Peels

A chemical peel is a controlled exfoliation. A solution is applied to the skin for a short time, it loosens the bonds holding dull, damaged cells at the surface, and the skin underneath is revealed as those cells clear. That is the whole idea. What changes between peels is the acid used, its strength, and how deeply it works.

Home care will only take you so far. The acids in over-the-counter products are deliberately mild so they are safe without supervision. In studio I work at professional strength, which is a different thing entirely, and the skill is in matching the peel to the person rather than reaching for the strongest option. I am certified by PCA Skin, Glytone and BioRePeel in the peel systems I use.

The peels I offer

PCA Skin peels

The largest family, and the one I use most. The Sensi Peel is a gentle TCA peel formulated for sensitive, reactive and rosacea-prone skin, and it is my usual starting point for anyone new to peels. The Ultra Peel works deeper and targets fine lines, sun damage and uneven texture, so it suits clients who have had peels before. For pigmentation there is the Peel with Hydroquinone, a version with resorcinol, and a hydroquinone-free alternative for anyone who prefers to avoid it. The Enzymatic Brightening Treatment and the Peel with Enzymatic Treatment are gentler again, using enzymes to brighten dull, uneven skin. The Pore Detox Treatment is aimed at congestion. You can see them all in the PCA peel range.

Glytone peels

Glytone gives me mandelic, glycolic and pyruvic acid to work with. Mandelic acid has a larger molecule than glycolic, so it moves into the skin more slowly and is generally the better-tolerated choice for sensitive skin. Glycolic is the more familiar alpha hydroxy acid and works on surface tone and texture. I match the acid type and the strength to your skin rather than to a menu.

BioRePeel

A two-phase treatment that exfoliates while delivering nutrients into the skin. It is formulated for minimal visible peeling, which makes it a practical option when you have something on the calendar and cannot spend a week looking flaky. There is a face version and a body version.

Arctic Berry Peel

A three-step treatment formulated to support collagen and to target pigmentation and inflammation. The Arctic Berry Peel includes a facial, so it is the most relaxing thing on this list as well as a working treatment.

Lactic and Tri-blend

Lactic acid is one of the gentlest peels I offer. It is an alpha hydroxy acid and also a humectant, so it suits skin that is dry as well as dull, and it is a comfortable starting point for most people. It can also be used on acne-prone skin. The Tri-blend peel combines more than one acid in a single treatment.

Body peels

Peels are not only for the face. I offer PCA Smoothing Body Peels for the chest and neck, hands, arms and lower legs, and BioRePeel has a body formulation as well. Sun damage shows up on the chest and the backs of the hands long before most people think to treat them.

Which peel is right for me?

If you are new to peels, the Sensi Peel is the gentlest option I carry, and it tells me how your skin responds before we go further. The Lactic Acid Peel is another gentle place to start.

If your concern is pigmentation or dark spots, the PCA peels with brightening actives are formulated for exactly that, and mandelic acid is worth discussing as a slower, gentler route.

If your concern is congestion or breakouts, the Sensi Peel is the one I reach for most often, and the Pore Detox Treatment is built around congestion. A peel is a cosmetic treatment, not a medical one, so it is not a cure for acne. If your acne is painful, cystic or scarring, please see a dermatologist, and tell me about any prescribed treatment you are using before we start.

If your concern is fine lines and texture, the Ultra Peel goes deeper, and pairing a peel with dermaplaning beforehand helps it work more evenly.

If you have an event coming up, BioRePeel is the one to ask about, because it is formulated for minimal visible peeling.

If you have sensitive or reactive skin, say so when you book. Sensi and mandelic exist for this reason, and I would rather start conservatively and build than push your skin too hard on a first visit.

Peels and deeper skin tones

Deeper skin tones can absolutely have chemical peels, and the considerations are real rather than a reason to avoid them. Skin with more melanin is more prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, which means the choice of formulation and strength matters more, not less. I start by assessing your skin and the concern you want addressed, and I always begin conservatively to see how your skin responds before building from there. I will walk you through what to expect, including how to protect your results afterward, before you book.

What can I expect at my appointment?

The peel itself takes less than 30 minutes. Expect a mild tingling or a feeling of warmth on the skin for a few minutes while the peel is on. Afterward I apply a physical sunblock with an SPF of 30 to protect the skin. Your face will be pink when we finish. All peels are performed by licensed estheticians.

Aftercare

An aftercare treatment kit is included in the cost of the service, and you will use it for a minimum of 5 days. Please refrain from working out or getting overheated, and from tanning the area, for a minimum of 48 hours. An SPF 30 or higher containing zinc oxide or titanium dioxide must be used when going outdoors or driving. Avoid hot showers, hot tubs and saunas for a few days afterward. Do not pick or pull at the skin, as this can cause scarring. Please call me if you experience excessive redness, burning or itching.

What are the side effects?

The treatment is non-invasive. The usual side effects are mild, temporary irritation and pinkness. It is possible to be allergic to ingredients in a peel, so if you are allergic or sensitive to glycolic or alpha hydroxy acid, tell me before treatment. If you would rather test first, a patch test can be arranged for a few days before your appointment. Just ask when you book. If you are pregnant, or think you may be, chemical peels should not be used. Retinoids, recent isotretinoin use, active cold sores and open skin are all reasons to reschedule, so mention them when you book.

How often can I have one?

Results build with repeat treatments. A series of 3 to 6 peels approximately three to four weeks apart is the usual recommendation. Autumn and winter are the easier months for a peel series, because the skin is more sensitive to sun afterward and there is simply less of it about.

Are chemical peels covered by insurance?

No. Chemical peels are considered elective and are not covered by insurance.

Ready to book?

You can see the full range in the chemical peels collection and the PCA peel range. If you are not sure which one is right for your skin, book a skin care consultation and I will choose for you.